Today was another challenging and somewhat frustrating day in Panama.  Up at 4:15 AM in order to catch the 5:00 AM shuttle to the airport for my 7:00 AM flight.  Check in was a breeze, wandered up to my gate area, stopped to buy a cappuccino and guava/cream cheese Danish ($15.00—do they think Panama City is New York?).

When I saw the additional security at the gate, I settled myself into a seat across from Gate 7a to savor my breakfast and still have access to restrooms.  At about 6:30, the security personnel called for everyone who hadn’t already done so to enter the gate area but I noticed there was no plane at the end of the passenger bridge so asked why.  I discovered that security personnel do not like to be questioned so I did as told; then, at 6:59, they announced a one hour delay.

Of course, after a while, I had to use the facilities so had to leave, then go through the indignation of being completely patted down AGAIN, having everything removed from my purse and carry-on.  I wasn’t back in the gate area but five or ten minutes when they announced a gate change.  Completely different terminal and, when we got there, the sign showed another hour delay…

At about 10:00, they had us go through security AGAIN and this time, we went through the door that normally leads to a plane but instead they loaded us on buses.  No explanation whatsoever.  I was wondering if they decided to just drive us to Miami since they couldn’t seem to get us a plane.😊 Anyway, we drove all around the airport to an outlying area.  At one point, we had to stop to let a jet take off in front of us.  Quite bizarre and a bit scary.  Finally, we saw a plane all by itself near what looked like a maintenance building.  Up the mobile stairs, we all made our way to assigned seats and we FINALLY took off at 11:00 AM.  American Airlines “appeased” us with free snacks and drinks but, more importantly, they also managed to cut the flying time a bit.

I was worried because I only had a little more than an hour until my flight to Tampa.  My recollection of entering Miami when returning from Europe last year was one of extreme chaos and it took over an hour to navigate immigration and customs.   I must say, I was extremely impressed with the efficiency in the North Terminal.  I was able to get to my gate in less than twenty minutes!  I even had time to buy a cappuccino and tiramisu ($6.50—now that’s more like it!).

This plane left Miami and arrived in Tampa on time.  Mary Pat met me in the terminal and we were finally BACK AT HOME by about 6:00 PM!

Interesting note… I checked my credit card and bank statements to ensure that all charges were accurate and was very pleased to see that the exchange rates used were much more favorable to me than what I had calculated when on site signing chits.  YAY!

Today has been a major clusterf#$k!  My driver (scheduled for 11:30 AM) was early and offered to give me a tour of the city before going to the airport but I had seen online that there was an earlier flight to Miami where I could maybe catch the last flight to Tampa tonight so I opted out of the “tour” and asked him to take me to the airport.

The first agent I spoke to said there is a $250 change fee so I ‘t worth the change but then, the agent next to him said, she’s paying with dividend miles and is not subject to the change fee.  I was SO excited!  They changed my flights so that I would be to get home tonight instead of having to stay overnight in Miami and fly to Tampa tomorrow morning.

Checked bags, went through security (all the normal stuff), got to my terminal, bought water which I put into my thermos and a snack for the plane (American doesn’t give you food for free).  Then, I wandered down to Gate 7A and found there is ANOTHER security line right at the gate!  They took every single thing out of my carry-on (I was not alone suffering that indignity) and they threw out my just purchased water.  Then, to make matters worse, we are stuck in an area with no restroom!  But, of course, with no water to drink, perhaps they think we don’t need a restroom.  Apparently, they didn’t have mothers who always told us to go to the bathroom right before leaving for any trip.  As I was growing up, that was so  ingrained in me, that I, to this day, cannot get in a car, on a plane, bus, train, any mode of transportation without first using the facilities. 😊

Anyway, we were herded onto the plane on time, taxied out to the runway where we sat for a while.  We just figured we were waiting for clearance or whatever but then the captain came on and said we had to go back to the terminal for a “little” maintenance problem.  We did and sat and sat and sat… Then, the captain announced that maintenance said it was a bigger problem than originally thought and we should deplane.

So, we all get off and, by this time, my originally scheduled flight is boarding at the next gate and I am now in a line waiting to be re-scheduled.  An hour goes by and our line has not moved but inches.  The agent finally announces that those of us who checked bags must go down and reclaim our bags and then go to check-in to re-schedule.  This is not as simple as it may sound.  We are in a foreign country so that means going back through immigration.  Do you think they bothered to tell these non-English speaking officers that this was a re-schedule?  Of course not!  Another major delay.

Then, we get to baggage and, despite their telling us our bags are on Carousel 5, no bags.  We waited another two hours!  Bags finally come (soaking wet as it was raining pretty hard).  So now, by this time, you would think that customs would have been notified that we are not trying to illegally enter the country but no.  Another delay.

Finally, at about 5:00 PM, I got my new tickets for tomorrow, a voucher for a hotel stay, vouchers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  So, I was escorted to the shuttle to take me to the Riande Aeropuerto Hotel in Panama.  It is actually a pretty nice hotel.  I should be in Miami right now but I guess I would still have to be interpreting Spanish so what’s the difference.  I will be home tomorrow, just a little later than expected.

I may have to re-think  my love affair with jungles.  I’ve been to several jungles or rain forests and yes, I love the smell—the damp earth combined with decomposing leaves, fresh flowers, trees, fruit both eaten and decaying or ripening, animals… yet, it is fresh and real and somehow clean-smelling. The smell is absolutely intoxicating.  Sounds—bird calling out to each other, cicadas announcing their presence, monkeys, especially the terrifying sound of howlers click here for a brief sound: 

I actually find it all quite relaxing as these are the sounds and smells of primitive nature.

But, something very strange happened this trip.  While in the jungles of Peru I received many mosquito bites despite liberal applications of Deet.  I did not even realize I had been bitten or stung so many times until in Cusco where I had a full-length mirror.  I stopped counting when I reached fifty bites.  But, they weren’t hurting or itching so I was unconcerned.  But then yesterday the itching started.

Today I woke up in pain, scratching and itching all over.  I swear there are no additional bites but now they appear angry and swollen and red.  During the night, I scratched many of them open and, despite applying liberal amounts of anti-itch medicine, I hurt all over.

So, I am in pain and it is making me want to go home.  What is more comforting than to be home in your own bed with your little dog laying next to you?

Despite all of this, I did manage to enjoy this last day.  I hiked through the rainforest and walked around the resort.  I ate the sea bass ceviche (again) and had a delectable coconut flan for dessert.  I drank a couple of glasses of chardonnay (they were out of sauvignon blanc) and now I have been packing to leave.  My airport transfer guy is picking me up at 11:30 AM so the next time you hear from me will more than likely be when I am in Miami.  My original flight had me with a two hour layover in Miami tomorrow night but American Airlines cancelled that flight and put me on one leaving in the morning instead.  How annoying.

I have very much enjoyed my trips to both Panama and Peru. Despite the language barrier, I managed to eat whatever I actually wanted and drank whatever I was in the mood for.  But now, I want to go home.

The tour also included a buffet lunch at the marina which included mahi mahi, beef tenderloin, and boneless chicken breast in a yummy gravy, steamed vegetables, rice, and potatoes.  I took a little bit of each and enjoyed all.  We were almost finished eating when the server told us there is a salad and dessert bar in another room.  I am guessing that because the hot foods were all in large covered dishes, they are presented on the patio where we were seated whereas the salad and dessert bar is in an enclosed room.  The salad bar was impressive so I was disappointed that I was already full and couldn’t take advantage.  I did manage, however, to try the flan (one of my favorites) as well as a key lime pudding.  The dessert bar was varied with several different puddings, cakes, cookies.  Why had I already eaten so much?

Originally, I had planned on zip lining while here in Panama but I discovered that activity to be 1-1/2 hours away by car.  Since I don’t have a car, I would have to either take a taxi or bus so decided to forego zip lining.

Back at the resort, I could smell the rain and, as is typical in a tropical setting, weather can change rapidly.  It had been sunny and warm all day.  Then, these are the views from my room as the storm came in…

Thunder, lightning, lights flickering on and off and then just off.  It’s a good thing I still had my flashlight as it got VERY dark here very quickly as my room got hot and stuffy.  I made my way up to the Monkey Bar where a generator was being used for the kitchen, ceiling fans, and light.  Luckily, the wine was cold and my dinner of sea bass was nice and hot.  I stayed up there until about 9:30 pm and I have no idea what time the electricity came back on as I was asleep shortly after returning to my room.

I know there is a large group of people here from France but I haven’t met any of them.  I did meet a couple from Switzerland but most everyone I’ve met is from the USA…Florida, Colorado, Illinois, New Jersey, New York.  I’ve heard several people say this is not their first visit here and, in fact, I heard one lady say this is her eighth visit!

Here are some random shots I have taken in the hotel…

What an excellent night of sleep.  I know I was tired after so many mornings of very early awakening and then flying for a good portion of the day but I do not remember one time having to get up during the night, even briefly.  My Fitbit says I slept for nine hours and that, for me, is extremely unusual. Great way to start the day.  I opened my curtains to my balcony to see a beautiful sunrise but, as I had not yet had a cup of coffee, never even thought to take a picture.  I watched the sun rise, listened to the jungle sounds and then made myself a cup of French press Café con leche.

I don’t know if I previously mentioned my addiction to coffee—and, not just any coffee.  I want it strong.  I usually buy a combination of beans – Cuban, French roast, Italian espresso, and perhaps a bit of New Orleans chicory which I grind together.  When at home, I use an old fashioned Italian espresso maker that goes on top of the stove.  Over my lifetime, I have owned some very expensive cappuccino/espresso machines but have found the simple Bialetti Moka pot to produce the best cup of coffee.

Obviously, I cannot count on having a stove in my hotel room so for travel, I have purchased a dual voltage collapsible pot and a travel French press.  I usually pack enough of my coffee bean mixture and bring along sufficient Mini Moos as well as sugar and Splenda.  Throughout my travels, I have found that I enjoy coffee made in most countries other than the United States but usually I want a cup as soon as I arise—before showering and dressing.  My pot and cup take up about as much space as an outfit so you see where my priorities lie.

Interesting fact–As Panama City is only a little more than 60 miles from the equator, daylight hours remain pretty constant at twelve hours per day with sunrise and sunset at around 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM respectively.

I signed up for a combination tour—aerial tram, nature preserve, and Gatun lake tour to commence at 9:15 AM.  I and eight others stated out with the tram.  Here’s one of the main differences at this jungle lodge versus others I have stayed in.  Instead of hiking to the destination (less than a mile), we were picked up in this funky-looking truck and were driven to the tram.

The tram offered a beautiful view—being taken above the trees and afforded the opportunity to see birds and monkeys up in their natural habitat.  Then, after getting off the tram, we walked up a very gradual ramp to the observation deck—10 stories and I didn’t even break a sweat.  That tells you how gradual the climb was.😊

After the tram, we visited the nature preserve where various injured animals were being taken care of.  There were, of course, parrots and monkeys, but two animals I had not seen in the Amazon were ocelots and sloths.  We were up close and personal as some of these animals had been injured as babies, thus never learned how to live in the wild and cannot be released.  We also visited the frog preserve, the butterfly preserve, as well as the orchid house.

Finishing the nature preserve, five of us were once again picked up to be taken to the marina for the canal tour.  Within about 5 minutes, we were in the Panama Canal, side by side with huge boats making their way to the Pacific.  We were told that mornings are for the Atlantic to Pacific crossings while the reverse is true in the afternoon.  Apparently though, it depends daily on conditions and the number and type of vessels traversing the canal.  Canal crossings occur 24 hours a day and it can take up to 18 hours for the complete crossing.  US military vessels take priority in transit.  Some vessels are restricted to daylight crossings.

Besides watching several of the vessels, we also went around Gatun Lake searching for animals.  Many, many birds, including toucans were sighted but I wasn’t quick enough to capture their picture.  Panama is home to caiman and crocodiles but never saw any on this trip.  We did see turtles resting on a log and at one point, the captain nosed our boat into an island where little monkeys actually came on board!

We said our goodbyes last night as Rick and Mary Pat had to leave for the Cusco airport at about 4:30 AM and I got to sleep in since I didn’t have to leave until 6:30 AM.  We had contracted with Omar for our rides to the airport which were without incident.  All of us had flights from Lima—they went to Miami and I went to Panama City, Panama.  I miss them.

I arrived in Panama at about 5:30 PM and was met by a driver holding a sign with my name – always a good sign.  The trip to Gamboa Rainforest Resort, approximately 32 miles from Tocumen airport, took almost an hour and, because it was dark, I really couldn’t see much on the drive.  Roads appear to be well-maintained as the ride was smooth.

Aerial view from website

This resort, about 30 minutes from Panama City, is located on the edge of the Soberania National Park, a 55,000 acre unique tropical ecosystem which has been protected for almost a century as part of the Panama Canal basin with large tracts of lowland tropical rainforest.  It is directly on the Chagres River, less than a mile from the Panama Canal.  Gorgeous!

View from lobby

Unlike other jungle resorts, this place is a haven for comfort and luxury.  It features a full spa as well as the jungle tours and hikes but, unlike jungle “resorts” I’ve stayed at in Costa Rica, Belize, and Peru, these rooms are fully air conditioned.  I also have a king-sized bed, unlimited OMG– HOT water, cable television, minibar, coffee pot, and room service.  After I took a twenty-minute shower, I wandered up to the bar and ate this spicy sea bass and shrimp ceviche served with plantain chips which I paired with a Chilean sauvignon blanc.   I did ask for a wine from Panama but they didn’t have one.  After I got back to my room, I did a google search and there is not much wine made here in Panama.

I retired somewhat early and checked out the tv channels.  I saw a Spanish version of “Who Wants to be a Millionaire?”, “Dating Game”, “Judge Judy”.  These people love their cartoons as there must be ten or fifteen cartoon channels—sometimes in English with Spanish subtitles, sometimes dubbed.  There are quite a few sports channels and a few channels showing American adventure or action movies in English with Spanish subtitles.

After the bus ride back to Agua Calientes, we wandered around the shops and streets.  When we stopped for lunch, Mary Pat and I shared soup and salad but Rick, being very adventuresome, decided to order alpaca.  I think he really wanted to try guinea pig as that seems to be a major delicacy here in Peru—always by far the most expensive thing on the menu, as much as 100 soles.  We all decided that alpaca tastes like and has the consistency of beef.

Then, on the train ride back to Ollantaytambo , we were treated to a fashion show of designs using alpaca wool but which started with a creature who danced through the car with several of the passengers.

We were once again picked up in a private car for our drive back to Cusco.  Our driver, Omar, was very accommodating, stopping at several places for us to take pictures and we stopped at a local farm raising alpacas.  Not only did we get to feed them, we watched how the yarn is made, dyed using all-natural plants and herbs, then woven to create those lovely sweaters, jackets, coats, wraps, scarves, and more.  Of course, there was a store and, despite Mary Pat and I resisting our natural impulse to buy in every other location (there are stores galore in Cusco and Aguas Calientes), both of us broke down upon finding just what each of us wanted.  Baby alpaca is so incredibly soft, lightweight, yet warm at the same time.

Machu Picchu!  Considered a masterpiece of architecture and engineering, On July 7, 2007 Machu Picchu was declared one of the new seven wonders of the modern world in Lisbon, Portugal, which had the participation of one hundred million voters around the world.  Long on my bucket list, we met our guide, Jose Luis at 5:30 AM for the 30-minute bus ride, which was an adventure unto itself traversing a narrow, stone and dirt road carved out of the mountain with sharp switchbacks and no guardrails.  In July of 2017, due to the massive popularity of the site, new rules were implemented.  Entrance into the site is limited to 2,500 per day, split into two separate entrance times so tickets must be purchased in advance and you can only enter with an approved guide.

Me at the top

Some of the other rules… As set out in Article 19 of the Ministerial Resolution, here are the general visitor rules for Machu Picchu (I have only included the important ones):

• 19.1. Any type of bag/rucksack measuring more than 40 x 35 x 20 cm (15.7 x 13.7 x 7.9”) is not permitted and must be placed in storage (near the entrance).
• 19.2. It is prohibited to enter with food and drink.
• 19.4. It is prohibited to enter with alcoholic beverages.
• 19.5. It is prohibited to enter with umbrellas or sun shades (hats and ponchos / rain coats are permitted).
• 19.6. It is prohibited to enter with photographic tripods or any type of camera stand/support. This is only permitted with pre-authorization and the appropriate permit.
• 19.9. It is prohibited to enter with any musical instruments, including megaphones and speakers.
• 19.11. It is prohibited to enter with shoes with high-heels, or hard soles. Only soft soles are permitted (like those found in training shoes or walking shoes/boots).
• 19.12. It is prohibited to enter with children’s strollers / prams. Only strap on baby/child carriers are permitted.
• 19.17. It is prohibited to climb or lean on walls or any part of the citadel.
• 19.18. It is prohibited to touch, move or remove any lithic items / structures.
• 19.22. It is prohibited to enter with walking sticks with a metal or hard point. Only elderly people and physically-handicapped people are permitted to enter with a walking stick, when it has a rubber tip.
• 19.25. It is prohibited to get naked, dress up, lie down, run and jump.
• 19.26. It is prohibited to make loud noises, applaud, shout, whistle and sing. The tranquility and character of Machu Picchu must be maintained at all times.
• 19.27. It is prohibited to smoke or use an electronic cigarette.
• 19.32. It is prohibited to feed the resident or wild animals.
• 19.33. It is prohibited to paraglide, fly any type of drone or small aircraft.

Look at Rule 19.25!  Makes you wonder what people are thinking sometimes.

Anyway, three different circuits are outlined and must be followed.  Our guide led us through Circuit 1, the classic route, the most challenging from a physical perspective as it takes in both the upper sector of the citadel before heading in a large loop to the lower sector.  It takes approximately 2-1/2 hours to complete.  There are additional trails up the Huayna Picchu Mountain (behind Machu Picchu) one can trek but we did not.

I cannot emphasize enough the awe I felt.  The citadel itself is thought to have been built starting in 1450.  Just imagine the primitive instruments, the architectural knowledge, the Incas used to build this massive structure that has lasted thus far over 550 years.  Almost more astonishing is the way they built “windows” to predict the seasons or the carved rock outcropping, in the foreground of the photograph below, which echoes the shape of the mountains beyond, directing the viewer’s vision out into the landscape while simultaneously bringing the power of a distant peak into the site at Machu Picchu, Peru.

Some other views:

Up early to meet our tour guide for the next leg of the trip.  A nice gentleman from the local office serving Viator tour picked us up in a private car for the two-hour drive to Ollantaytambo.  The drive was magnificent through the upper portions of Cusco then through many small towns, traversing through the mountains down from almost 12,000 foot height of Cusco to a mere 9,353 feet.  In Cusco, we all had become a bit lightheaded with slight headaches but nothing serious.

Ollantaytambo is a quaint little town of less than 10,000 studded with hostels, restaurants, and souvenir shops.  The train station was quite busy but we found that as first class passengers on the Vistadome, we were given access to free restrooms, a beautiful waiting area, and shops.  Rick, Mary Pat and I all bought sandwiches for the train before we boarded a beautiful car with comfortable leather seats and tables.  Large windows, including on the roof, afforded us views of some of the most magnificent scenery in the world.  Mary Pat and I, of course, snagged the window seats.  Shortly after departure, we were served complimentary coffee, tea, and a delectable carrot cake.  After this, Mary Pat and I enjoyed a local Peruvian sauvignon blanc, Intilpaca.  The ninety-minute ride took us through the scenic sacred valley to Agua Caliente where we had reserved a room for the night.

Since we arrived mid-afternoon, we set about exploring the town.  Agua Caliente is at an elevation of 6,690 feet, population of only 1,600 yet it seemed to be a bustling little metropolis as scores of tourists roamed the streets.  Shops selling alpaca sweaters and cover-ups, restaurants, and hotels seem to be the dominant industries.  We stayed at the comfortable Hotel Satay minutes from the train station.  All of us were in the mood for a good dinner and we were definitely gastronomically pleased.  Rick order a beautiful trout dish, Mary Pat ordered chicken, and I had rack of lamb.  We shared a bottle of wine and our total price was only about $50.00!

We have been experiencing highs in the 90’s with humidity at about 95%.  Evenings temps have usually dropped to the mid-70’s.  We are staying in a beautiful cabin with many screened windows – no glass.  There is no heat or air conditioning and, with no electricity at night, no fans.  This made for some warm nights but last night we experienced a wicked thunderstorm when temperatures plummeted about 40 degrees.  For several hours, the skies opened and rain pounded the roof, winds whipped through trees and windows, angry bolts of lightning were immediately accompanied by booming thunder. Not much sleep.

Today we are scheduled to leave by boat at 8:00 am and I just prayed through the night that the storm would pass through so we didn’t have to experience riding in a canoe up river back to Puerto Maldonado.  My prayers were answered.  While it was a cold ride, it was dry.  We were dropped off at Puerto Maldonado airport which, when we arrived, was a rather sleepy place with little activity.  That wasn’t the case this morning as the airport was jammed with travelers seeking to fly either to Lima or Cusco.

Before leaving Puerto Maldonado, I have to talk about the scrumptious food served in ample quantity throughout this stay at Amazon Planet Lodge. Every meal included local dishes, homemade juices with fruits picked on the property, desserts made with local fruit or chocolate.  Service was superb–all in all a very enjoyable experience.

I also forgot to mention the incredible sight of the star-filled sky the night of the caiman search.  With so little ambient light in the Amazon rainforest, the sky is so clear and yet so bright.  For those who have never seen a truly dark sky, a true discovery awaits. You can actually see varying hues in the night sky.  It is magical.  I happen to know that you do not have to travel to the Amazon rainforest (although I recommend it to everyone) for dark sky gazing.  The International Dark-Sky Association has a page where you can enter our zip code to find the closest spot to you:  Dark Sky Finder.  I actually visited the Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah at night–it was the first international dark sky park certified by this organization.

Me in Misters Inkas lobby

So, back to the trip:  We flew to Cusco without event and arrived at Misters Inkas Palace Hotel.  Temperatures here are quite a bit lower than in the jungle.  It is probably in the upper 60’s.  I know I mentioned before that Cusco is high in the Andes with an elevation of almost 11,200 feet.  Cusco is bustling with energy with cars, taxis, buses, motorcycles all vying for the right of way making it difficult for pedestrians but we found that the traffic police are SO nice.  We even had one stop traffic in the middle of a block to let us cross!

Anyway, we were on a mission.  I broke my glasses last night.  Not fixable.  I have a week to go and I do not see well without them.  I was told they don’t sell readers at pharmacies like they do in the US but rather at optometry shops and the desk at Misters Inkas told me there was an optometrist shop nearby so we set off to find it.

I had figured that I could buy readers since my distance visual impairment shouldn’t affect my walking around.   As we found so far throughout Peru, very few people actually speak English but thank God for Google Translate.  Through this app, I told the doctor what I needed and he disagreed.  He found a frame on his wall and said he could remove my actual lenses and put them in new frames within an hour!  Total cost 140 soles which translates to about $40.  We left, ate dinner (arroz con pollo which was excellent), went back and they fit perfectly!  What a godsend.

We retired early as in the morning we are off to our tour of Machu Picchu–LATER!