July 10, 2017  The Night Before

Ok. It is the night before I leave for my European trip and I am officially excited! I am pretty much packed but think I may have found a little stowaway.

As usual, I am probably taking more than I really need but am proud that I managed to do so in a small suitcase that only weighs 28 pounds (without Chloe). I am allowed at least 50! It has been almost a year since I started planning this trip and it has taken many different turns but ultimately, I decided on Amsterdam, Berlin, Prague, Vienna, Budapest, and London.

July 11, 2017  Flight to London

Decent flight, pretty good food, FREE wine. I actually slept for about four hours so managed to get on Europe time pretty easily. Landed at London Gatwick at about 7:30 AM. Very, very busy airport, lots of stores, huge and very noisy. My Fitbit showed almost 6,000 steps just going from arrival gate through customs, back through security and to new departure gate. And–this was all in the same terminal. What I didn’t realize was that I didn’t need to do all of that since I wasn’t staying in London. Oh well.

I don’t know whether it was English women or European women but LOTS of perfume everywhere. Not a fan.

I managed to find a coffee place and then a “quiet room” for reading. You aren’t even told your departure gate until they are ready to board so it is a little chaotic but the signs were good.

Flight to Amsterdam just called!

July 12, 2017  Onward to Amsterdam

Amsterdam Airport – Schiphol is very nice. All signs in English so I was able to find my bag and then the train to Amsterdam Central. On the train now. Clean, fast.

         

 

July 12, 2017  In Amsterdam

I wasn’t able to actually post the previous entries until just now as I wasn’t on the internet. I am checked into my hotel–Room Mate Aitana. Nice room on the 8th floor so there is a view of the city. Walked here from the train station (about 15 minutes or so) carting my suitcase so haven’t taken any pictures yet. It is a bit chilly–63 degrees, windy. I’m taking a quick shower, changing, and going out exploring.  This is my hotel…

Ah! Where to start. I left the room and wandered around Old Town and found a very large section of cobblestone pedestrian-only streets lined with every type of store…typical souvenir places, cafes, clothing stores, but also head shops and sex toy/apparel shops. I saw many “USA-illicit” wares such as magic mushrooms, beautiful pipes, cannabis in seed or tobacco form but also in surprising treats such as cannabis ice cream, lollipops, cookies. Bakeries and cheese shops galore to tempt the senses.

Traffic is heavy—loads of bikes and scooters with dedicated lanes but also many cars and, even though this is “downtown”, they drive rather fast. Tough on pedestrians as there is quite a bit of construction and a lot of the walk lights don’t seem to be working. All the street names seem to be 11 letters or more long (e.g., Warmoesstraat, Brouwersracht, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstr) and not all streets have signs so following a map is quite the challenge. It may have been the time of day because as I look out my window right now, traffic is not that bad.

While I was wandering, I wasn’t terribly hungry but stopped at a little café for a bite. I enjoyed a selection of Dutch, Spanish, and French cheeses and fresh fruit served with fig bread and jam. Of course, I paired that meal with a crisp Chilean sauvignon blanc. Fig bread is a sweet, dark, hearty bread that I think would probably go well with cream cheese. 

One of the charming features of Amsterdam thus far has been hearing so many different languages as I walk around. Many ages are represented but the bulk of the people I saw today seemed to be young. It seems to me that European males wear their clothing much tighter than American men no matter the age.

I briefly mentioned my room in my last post. It is on the 8th floor and does have a balcony but unfortunately not accessible. There is no door but rather a large window that slants inward (not big enough to crawl through). It is a floor to ceiling window so it provides an abundance of light. I overlook a canal but also see several apartment buildings, all of which have charming rooftop gardens. Here’s the really weird thing—most of the apartments across the way have floor to ceiling windows and most of them have either no curtains or they are wide open and I can see right in. I’m kind of wondering what I will be able to see tonight.

         

I found a small grocery (better than our 7-11s but not as comprehensive as Publix) and bought some snacks, water, coffee creamer, and wine. My room has a refrigerator, iron, safe, coffee maker, nice flat screen tv (it gets BBC and CNN but NO FOX), very modern furniture, a very comfy king bed, a minibar that includes the usual liquors and wines but also Doritos, Kit Kats, Pringles, and Tootsie Roll lollipops. There is a small ice maker I eventually found next to the elevator but, strangely enough, when I asked the maid where it was, she didn’t know!

July 13, 2017  Wandering around Amsterdam

Wonderful canal cruise. Good way to explore city and plan day. Lots of history and fun facts…over 550,000 bikes in city with 10% stolen each year. Guide said many also end up in the canals.   Interesting juxtaposition of VERY old (1600s-1700s) architecture with sleekly modern. Residential buildings very narrow but deep. This was due to the taxing structure which measured front only. Also, many have hoisting mechanisms built right into the structures.

       

 

While wandering, I decided I was hungry for savory crepes.  I decided on ham, mushroom, onion and cheese.  Pancakes or crepes seem to be on most menus here.  Fine with me.  I could eat this kind of food every single day!

July 13, 2017  Cruising in Amsterdam

Just came back to the room for a little break. Am very proud of myself as the pictures and previous posts were made from my phone. Never did that before so am learning as I go. What an awesome city! Over 3,000 houseboats ranging from very large and luxurious to tiny or even somewhat ratty line the various canals. Most buildings along the way are beautiful and date back several centuries. One interesting fact is that many buildings tilt forward; they were built that way on purpose so as to avoid damaging the face when hoisting goods or furniture into the upper stories. I was lucky enough to see a homeowner using the hoisting system…   

There are approximately 60 miles of canals within Amsterdam and, while they are very clean, swimming is not really allowed except for during an annual fundraising event (I think they said it is held in September). Some canals are rather narrow and appear to meander while others are wide. In actual fact, the canals and the city were very well planned.

The Amstel River runs through the city eventually linking to the canal system–we cruised part of it this morning. We went under Mager Brug which is more commonly called Skinny Bridge. Apparently lore says the bridge was built to facilitate visitation because the Mager sisters lived across the river from each other. We were told that the canal system has approximately 1,200 bridges and, believe me, some of them are very low.

I was surprised to find out that it rarely snows or even freezes in Amsterdam. It is farther north than North Dakota yet the lowest average temperature is in January at 37 degrees Fahrenheit!

— at Room Mate Aitana

Getting ready to go on walking tour of Red Light District. Sorry guys, no pictures allowed.

I just came back from a two-hour walking tour of Amsterdam’s Red Light District—our tour guide was Mark, a very knowledgeable young man who met his fiancé while she was on the job as one of the girls in the window. She is still self-employed as a prostitute and, as he says, it is a job. The tour started at 9:00 PM. We were told that no pictures are allowed of the prostitutes and warned that there are serious consequences for breaking this rule—water bottles full of condom remains emptied on our persons, phones snatched and thrown into the canal or stomped on, whatever.

Our first stop was the Condomerie (picture below). This enterprising emporium sells, WAIT FOR IT—CONDOMS–all sizes, colors, decorations, lubricants. Check it out:  www.condomerie.com.

As we wound through the district, he pointed out the church at the center, the day care (used by many Amsterdammers). We also stopped at several coffee shops and looked at the wares. (I mentioned yesterday about the variety of products containing cannabis.) Magic truffles are also for sale and while I fondly remember an interesting trip I made in the past, alas, what fun would it be on my own? So, I resisted. In the District though, especially at night, the smell is palpable and I think we all experienced a sort of contact high. Ah!

Only “soft” drugs are allowed. Cocaine, heroin, LSD, morphine—NO, even magic mushrooms are a NO NO. Totally illegal. And, here is an interesting fact—growing, processing, and trading in marijuana is against the law unless the sale is 5 grams or less by a licensed coffee shop.

Back to the sex trade. Very, very interesting. The prostitutes must register with the city, they are tested regularly, they pay income taxes (Mark said 21% and they don’t get deductions for clothing or makeup). Women (or trannies) dressed in extremely skimpy bikinis stand in full length windows outlined by red or blue lights (their choice) and, BTW, I only saw red. Sometimes they lick their lips or make suggestive gestures as you walk by and some of them talk or text on their phones. (I know, this has got to be a boring job until you get a customer.) Also, I thought it was fascinating that every prostitute I saw was good looking and, in many cases, beautiful.

Pimps are not involved. The prostitutes rent their windows by the hour (~$150 euro per hour). The customer negotiates directly with the prostitute but generally the going rates are 50 to 100 euro per 30 minute session. The rates can depend on race or sexuality. Fees are paid in advance and every room has a “panic” button should the girl experience problems. Prostitutes must be 21 and can offer their wares from 8:00 AM to 6:00 AM. Two hours mandatory closing of shop!

There are approximately 290 windows in the city shared by the prostitutes and they generate approximately 650 million euro annually for the city!

        

The area we walked in is not the only red light district but is probably the busiest. Nearby the Old Church mentioned earlier is Belle, a statue of a prostitute with the inscription “Respect sex workers all over the world.”

Thank goodness I am having a wonderful time. Television news here sucks. BBC, CNN…I miss Tucker and Hannity although, BBC was somewhat complimentary to our President about the Paris trip. They also though Melania looked beautiful (which, of course, she always does).

I had closed the computer and was ready to finally call it a night (it is 1:24 in the morning after all). I was flipping through the channels and I put on Discovery Channel (because I can’t get FOX), and they are talking about Tampa International Airport! How cool is that!

 

July 14, 2017  Exploring Amsterdam

Decided I had to enjoy a Heineken and what better place than here? Paired this with cheese cubes and Dutch pickles.

This morning was overcast and drizzly—occasionally the rain would send people scurrying for cover but, it never seemed to last more than a few minutes. The canal cruise has a cover so I figured I’d start my day by taking a different cruise than yesterday. A very light drizzle was falling so I opened my window so I’d have better visibility. Immediately, I heard the lady behind me bitching to her husband that she felt some of the rain. I was right next to the window with my face almost out of it and couldn’t feel a thing but I turned my head to see where she was getting so wet and she had her arms crossed and was glaring at me. So, instead of being the polite person I usually am and offering to close the window, I opened it further. I know, I was being petty but the slight bit of drizzle was warm. Also, there were some empty seats further back in the boat. Ok, so that was my one truly selfish act.

I got off the boat at the furthest point from departure because I wanted to explore by myself. I just started walking taking turns here and there, snapping pictures when I saw something interesting. I inadvertently came upon a walking tour and overheard an intriguing fact. In 1602, the Dutch East India Company officially became the world’s first publicly traded company when it released shares of the company on the Amsterdam Stock Exchange. Stocks and bonds were issued to investors and each investor was entitled to a fixed percentage of East India Company’s profits.

Continuing my wandering, I found a small gallery showing works of a Dutch artist, Mark Raven, and I bought a small signed print from him. I’m excited. I’d rather have wall art than than a refrigerator magnet.

                     

I did stop for a Heineken at one point and later, at another bar, an Amstel. I am in Holland so figured I needed to taste the local beers. Both of these beers have been on my favorites list at different points in my life and I found they tasted the same as I recall they do as imports in the States.

The sun came out at 3:00 or so and I continued my trek. I managed to find the Church in the Attic, Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer Op Solder. Pat Ferguson told me about this place and I am so glad I found it. Hidden in plain sight within the Red Light District, this impressive church is fully contained in the top three floors of a 17th canal house, and invisible to the street. On one side is a marijuana shop, on the other side, fast food. Well-worth a visit to this, the second-oldest museum in Amsterdam, as a reminder of the lengths to which people will go to worship even when social isolation is the norm.

      

Several times I took turns that headed me back away from my hotel area but that was the plan. Just keep on going. I stopped a couple of times for cappuccinos and to people watch. Besides, of course, Dutch people, I met residents of South Africa, New Zealand, England, Germany, Finland, and Arkansas. The funny thing is, when I met the Arkansans, I was already talking to the South Africans who asked this couple who sat next to us where they were from. They said they were from “close to Texas”. I said “Close to Texas? What does that mean?”

Amsterdam has been a wonderful experience and I am taking away a new love of fig bread and fig jam or fig chutney. I got the recipes—great go-withs for wine and cheese!

This is a city in love with its bicycles.

      

I have an early flight tomorrow to Berlin so I plan to catch the train at 7:30 AM or so. The shower in this room is one of those HUGE rain showers so I am going to go in there and let it do its thing on my shoulders and head. Then, I bought a French sauvignon blanc which I figure a couple of glasses would help me relax. I’ll pack my stuff, read a bit, and then night night!

I’ll be back in Germany! (I went to Germany many years ago but traveled mostly throughout the Black Forest).  This time I am going to Berlin.

     

I forgot to mention that I somehow found and wandered through the flower market–the smells were heavenly and plants so beautiful! I also took a couple of pictures of some of the weird things I saw–the Burger King and McDonalds right next to each other, the guy with the bubbles, the monster… Sometimes, I just liked the architecture.

    

 

July 15, 2017  On My way to Berlin

I must look like a terrorist. I was completely patted down and this was after going through the scanner. Then, they removed everything from my backpack, even emptying each zippered container, removing all chargers, snacks, etc. No contraband found. Thank God I am someone who always arrives early. The security line wasn’t very long so maybe they were just bored.  Nice airport though. Very clean and relatively easy to navigate. Good cappuccino, decent price – 3 euros. I should be in Berlin before noon so plenty of time to explore today.

Now this was bizarre. I just bought a water at the kiosk by my gate and I had to show my boarding pass and state my nationality in order to buy it!

Arrived in Berlin…

Physically, Berlin is a study in contrasts. Centuries old buildings stand side by side with shining glass-lined structures. Since much of the pre-World War II architecture was either destroyed or damaged, Berlin has worked hard and successfully at restoration or replacement. There are still many construction projects underway throughout Berlin.

     

Berlin seems to be in love with statues and one thing I found fascinating was the presence of statues on top of many buildings. You’ll see what I mean in some of my pictures and this was but a VERY small representation. I also saw Bellevue Palace in the Tiergarten District (picture far right above).

I am now going to show my true ignorance of international politics. When I was told Bellevue Palace was the president’s official residence, I assumed they meant Angela Merkel. I mean, Ms. Merkel and President Trump are kind of on equal footing, aren’t they? Well, it turns out, Germany has a President who is not political, despite being elected. Very confusing. His name is Frank-Walter Steinmeier. Have you ever heard of him? I haven’t yet, he was elected on February 12, 2017.

Older buildings here are rather elaborate, ornate, yet quite beautiful. I included a selection of pictures. I mentioned the Tiergarten earlier. It appears to be a rambling park, beautifully adorned with many trees, flowers, and rolling grassy hills. Historically, the area used to be a hunting ground back in the days of the Holy Roman Empire. Then, after 1944, it was deforested because the city needed firewood. Today, it is a place for joggers, sunbathers, meditators, and those who just wish to stroll the beautiful grounds.

    

 

I took a very instructional tour on one of those double decker (top open to the air) buses as my introduction to Berlin. Since I only have today and tomorrow here, I used this tour to help me plan tomorrow’s wanderings. When you get on the bus, you are given a set of earphones. You sit wherever you please (I sat up top) and plug in your earphones, select your language via flag symbols. I was a bit offended that there was no American flag. Oh well, I understand United Kingdom’s English so, I used the Union flag.

Anyway, after the 2-1/2 hour ride, I wandered around and noticed several things. In a shopper’s square, there was a contest where skimpily clad young men and women danced and paraded on stage to very loud rock music. Never did figure out the reason for this. I observed that many people smoke but particularly the youth. I get the sense (and this occurred to me in Amsterdam as well) that Europeans do not have the same sense of space we Americans are used to.

Burger King and McDonalds do not have the Fish Filet sandwich on the menus here but the rest of the menu looks to be what I think it is (I’m not a big user of either chain).

Many American retail establishments enjoy displaying their wares both here in Berlin as well as in Amsterdam and, whenever I looked inside, they were busy. I also noticed huge enclaves of extremely high designer stores both here and in Amsterdam—I am talking stores where the cost of a wallet was several hundred Euros. What the hell was I doing wandering around in those places?? Curiosity, plain and simple.

I stopped for dinner at a place whose menu showed traditional German fare. I went somewhat boring and ordered Weiner Schnitzel with a side of a lemony potato and cucumber salad, together with a glass of German chardonnay. Traditional fare but very good.  No Burger King or McDonalds for me when traveling!

I am back in my well-appointed room (no ice machine but they sent up a whole bucket of ice). There is a soft robe and slippers for me to wear to the sauna which I am thinking very seriously about doing in just a bit but, before I do, I must tell you about the television stations. I found loads of American TV shows—old CSI, NCIS, Big Bang, Murder She Wrote, Scooby Doo—all dubbed in German. It seemed especially strange hearing Gibbs and DiNozzo conversing in German; also, CNN, NBC, BBC in English, load of Spanish TV, and, this was the shocker, several Russian shows, one of which is a news outlet done in English and they were bashing American liberal mainstream media!

Cosmo Hotel Berlin Mitte…

and my room…                                                  and the lobby…

             

July 16, 2017

What a day! I’ve been out wandering for about six hours with no particular destination in mind. I did use the map provided yesterday to ensure that I didn’t go too far off the beaten path as I like to look at neighborhoods so whenever I saw a pretty street, I turned. At one point, this aimless stroll found me in a somewhat dicey area—it was shabbier than I’d previously seen with lots of shaved and tattooed boys and disheveled-looking men hanging around as opposed to families or tourists. I wasn’t scared but, it was kind of funny in a way. I had been looking for a convenience store to buy a bottle of wine to take back to the room and finally saw one on this street but decided I’d rather pay mini-bar prices than go in that store. I just kept up my determined walk and it wasn’t long before I found a well-traveled street. By the way, I eventually passed a store on a college campus and bought my wine. YAY!

I’m a bit confused about this Facebook thing. Most of you know that I am not a user of this medium so am still learning. I did several posts on my phone while out today and even posted some pictures. At the moment, I am in my room having a much-needed glass of wine (I know it is not yet 5:00 but, as Alan Jackson and Jimmy Buffet say, it is 5:00 somewhere). I see in my email that people have commented on some of these posts or pictures yet when I look at Facebook, the posts aren’t even there. Baffling!

Another strange thing—my room has these wonderful blinds that I control with a button on the wall but the blinds are not inside. Instead, they are on the outside of the window!

I believe that I already mentioned that I am very happy with this hotel—Cosmo Hotel Berlin Mitte. Sleeping last night was like sleeping on a cloud! The sauna was great—couldn’t stay in very long as I’m not used to them but I felt so CLEAN afterwards. Now, they are also helping me out with a problem I have.

I didn’t mention this before but I hurt my upper back and shoulder sometime when I was in Amsterdam. I’m in quite a bit of pain and unfortunately, my backpack is making it worse. So, while I was still in Amsterdam, I bought a much smaller daypack to wear but, since I still have quite a bit of traveling to do, I made the decision to jettison some of the stuff I brought with me. My plan was to send the larger backpack full of stuff back to the USA but, as I am on vacation, didn’t realize that it is Sunday today so much of the non-touristy stuff is closed. My train leaves early tomorrow morning for Prague so I have a true dilemma. I spoke to the concierge and he is going to get this mailed off for me.

I’m off to go search for a nice place to have dinner and have an additional leisurely walk around. I’ll post some pictures from today later.

         

You already know that I visited Checkpoint Charlie as I managed to post from there. I also visited Brandenburg Gate and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. I almost bought a piece of the Wall but decided that paying 9.5 Euro for a tiny piece of cement was not in my budget. I don’t need a memento of a piece of cement as I will never forget the pictures in the Jewish Museum or in the Wall Memorial. I wandered by the Reichstag, the Parliament Building, but Angela Merkel wasn’t there. I am guessing she doesn’t want to meet with me despite my sending her an email telling her that I am an important American who voted for Donald Trump. I never received a reply.

I found the Berlin US Embassy which is directly across from the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Several Polizei stood at various points directly outside the US Embassy. No idea why. Speaking of Polizei, they drive much smaller vehicles than American police but the sirens are very distinctive. I came across some sort of festival where there was a huge polizei presence and have included a picture of what I think may be their version of Swat vehicles.

As I said earlier, I went out for dinner. I managed to find this awesome little village aside River Spree within the city. It surrounds a huge beautiful old church and, when you are there, city sounds seem to disappear. This was within ½ mile from my hotel. It had started to sprinkle a bit but I sat outside anyway as there were beautiful huge umbrellas over the tables. I remembered my huge meal from last night which I couldn’t finish so I ordered a German appetizer- German meatballs with potato salad flavored with bacon and gherkins from the Spreewald region together with a glass of German chardonnay. It was delicious. I have absolutely no idea what sort of meat it was but decided I probably didn’t need to know.

As I was finishing dinner, three lovely women walked into the patio area but there were no seats available so I invited them to sit with me. Anna, Gertrude, and (I think) Joan were wonderful ladies from Dusseldorf on holiday to Berlin. Two of them had never ventured outside Germany but Anna said she had gone many years ago to San Francisco and found it noisy, dirty, and scary. I wonder what she would have said about New York! Anyway, I told them all that most of the USA is safe and there is much to see. We discussed Florida and I, of course, had many wonderful things to say about my resident state. I think that the Florida Chamber of Commerce would be proud of me!

By the way, European hotels (or at least the two I have been in thus far) make you use your key card in order to turn on the electricity—what a great idea to make it so we don’t waste.

Final thoughts before I go to bed—went up for a sauna again. Last night I was alone so wore my bathrobe and slippers in the sauna. Tonight, a guy was in there stark naked. When in Rome (or, in this case, Berlin)….

 

July 17, 2017  On my way to Prague

Just crossed border into Czech Republic! So far, beautiful rolling green hills, quaint cottages along river.  On train to Prague. I’m in a comfy compartment with two girls from London and three from Berlin. Crowded train…so glad I reserved a window seat. Some people are actually standing out in the corridor. This is a four hour ride!

 

Germany’s trains are efficient and right on time—easy to navigate through their humongous Station. All kinds of stores to shop in but, more importantly, to buy whatever snacks or meals you plan to take on the train. My train was mid-day so I chose water and a selection of dried fruits and nuts, one of my standby favorites.

I wouldn’t normally talk about bodily functions but realized this is something so different from America I had to mention it. Pretty much everywhere you go, there is a cost for using the toilet. I am talking about a lot of the bars, restaurants, McDonalds (!), the train station, whatever. It is really aggravating because you pay anywhere from 50 cent Euro to a single Euro just to relieve yourself. Having worked in many tourist areas, I understand and even empathize BUT when you have been a paying customer and plan to immediately use the facilities, you still have to pay! Most places have a gate that you have to put your money into so it is not like this is voluntary.

Anyway, back to the trip. I told you about my compartment mates and they were all very nice girls. One of them asked me if I was a Trump supporter and I acknowledged yes and my pride at being one. After that, there wasn’t much conversation with me until one of them got a nose bleed and I was the only one with tissues. I, of course, could hear them and found they are students on holiday for three months touring around Europe on, guess who–Daddy and Mommy. But, they were polite and even helped me get my suitcase up on the rack.

One surprising thing is that I had paid for a reserved window seat in a compartment so I sort of assumed that to be the norm. NOT! A lot of students travel around Europe on passes and don’t bother reserving seats. It is allowed to sit in any empty seat but, if not, the train company does not care—the corridor outside my compartment was so full of students that going to the bathroom was very challenging.

The train ride itself was wonderful—smooth, comfortable and the scenery was fabulous. After leaving Dresden (still in Germany), the train parallels River Elbe and its rolling countryside together with several quaint villages and houses as well as interesting rock formations along the way. We arrived in Prague right on time and, as you can probably guess from my what I have been talking about, I had to use the bathroom but I had a particularly unique problem as I had no Czech Koruna! No dollars, no Euros could be used. I had figured I would get some from the ATM but as it turns out, my debit card does not participate in the Czech banking system so I couldn’t get any cash. Luckily, I did have Euros as well as dollars and, since I was desperate, I cashed some Euros in the train station—what a rip off but when one has to go…

Once that was settled, I decided to walk to my hotel, a mere 2 kilometers from the train station. I am so glad I did! Meandering cobblestone streets that don’t necessarily go in one direction filled with lovely outdoor cafes, small shops, beautiful churches. No traffic lights so crossing is definitely a challenge but the streets are narrow. Sidewalks are also made of stone and many are only wide enough for one person to pass one person. Single file, people!

I passed some of the most beautiful, ornate buildings that had no signs as to what they were. I will try to upload some pics but the last few I tried to upload in Germany did not work. No idea why. Still learning.

I love my quaint hotel that is both charming and very well situated in the heart of everything there is to do in Prague. My room has a huge skylight, exposed beams, very high ceilings, marble bath with a bidet (which I do not know how to use) and includes all of the requisite amenities. TV has NO CNN!! There are however channels from Cuba, Austria, Russia, some channels in Arabic. After walking around Prague for a while, I came back to the hotel and went down to the restaurant in the courtyard here. I had, without a doubt, the absolute best, tastiest cucumber soup with yogurt and dill jelly served with homemade bread and a lovely spreadable cheese. I also had an appetizer of two types of smoked sausage, gherkins (they love serving pickles with meat), and Czech cheeses. Of course, I paired this with a sauvignon blanc but forgot to ask where it was from. Wherever, it was crisp, slightly citrusy, and a wonderful complement to my meal.

This is the hotel’s breakfast room…                       and this is the patio bar area…

                 

 

July 18, 2017  Enjoying exploring Prague

Walked along various twisting and turning cobblestone streets taking in the sights and people watching. It is very easy to get lost as “streets” are not quite what we are used to. The street you are on could look like it ends but actually picks up halfway down a turn. Several times I found myself going in circles. — eating pastry and drinking coffee at Černá Madona.

That cappuccino only cost 69 Czech money. That was including a nice tip…or $3.00 total. Good deal! And FREE bathroom!

 

Just finished the most awesome tour of the castle district. Our guide, Givi, was so knowledgeable, imparting history in such a way that we hung on every word. I took so many pictures that I’d probably blow up my Facebook if I tried to post them all so I will give just a small sample. — eating lunch at Bohemia Restaurant, Prague.

Amidst the ancient architecture of the largest castle in the world, along cobbled streets curling and winding in an almost dizzying pattern, appears this statue called “Youth”. The penis is burnished gold from all those who have rubbed it for good luck. There is no plaque but that seems to be the pattern here in Prague. BTW, the guy in the picture is our wonderful, funny, irreverent guide, Givi. He was telling us this fanciful story about the statue but even he admitted he was unsure as to its provenance.  Construction of this cathedral began in 1344 but was not completed until 1929! St. Vitus is said to be a patron of actors, entertainers and dancers, and is said to protect against lightning, dog bites and oversleeping.

 

If you’ve not been to Prague, you must put it on your bucket list! I am absolutely in love with this charming and vibrant city. Our guide today was a very proud Czech and very vocal about his love of his country. He informed us that historically, the Czech Republic has had long periods of time under Hapsburg, German or Communist rule and has also been involved in many violent religious wars throughout the ages. Today, perhaps due to their history, Czechs are by and large one of the least religious populations of the world yet are tolerant of and indifferent to religion. The Czech Republic is a very developed country with an advanced high income economy, high living standards, and enjoy the lowest unemployment rate of EU members. In addition, they are unconcerned about being “politically correct” in conversation and have one of the lowest immigrant refugee populations of the EU.

             

About 80% of the total population in Prague is employed in the tourism/service industry and that, perhaps, is why so many are accommodating and friendly. After all, a visitor can wander these streets agog at the architectural splendor surrounding them but, if one doesn’t feel comfortable, the word will get around. I read somewhere that Prague is the fifth most visited city in Europe (after London, Paris, Istanbul, and Rome). Wandering through this city you see street musicians but they are not playing guitars—they are playing violins and the music they produce is so incredibly fitting!

One other thing I learned was that Hitler, despite his occupation here, did not destroy this city as he destroyed so many. One of the places I visited today, the Prague castle, was overrun with Nazis back during World War II – This photo of World War II in Prague Tour is courtesy of TripAdvisor.

 

I have noticed some oddities (for American palates) on menus here—rooster soup, wild boar, and grilled pork knees. Meat seems to be king and cream sauces over top of meat dominate many a menu. Pastries smell heavenly and just looking at them can add pounds to your waist. I love a good pastry and would try some of them but the portions are gargantuan! Even the specialized ice creams wrapped in a donut look so luscious—I watched one little boy with a cone as big as his forearm valiantly trying to finish this treat as ice cream dripped sadly down his shirt while I heard Mom saying “See I told you it was too big!” I didn’t have the nerve to take a picture of him but have provided a nondescript one—a donut around an ice cream? What heaven! Why can’t they do a little one for me?  I may just have to try one of these before I leave–two of my favorite food groups–ice cream and donuts together!

Some other things I have noticed… this is not unique to Prague as Prague seems to have very few traffic lights. In Holland and Germany as well as here, when you finally get a Walk signal, there is a nice little guy up on the light that shows green but that is not the cool thing—what happens is you get a sound while the green guy is showing that slowly speeds up as your time is running out. I like that!

Another uniquely European thing seems to be that, at least in hotels, the ground floor is not Floor 1. It is Floor 0. Any floor below it is -1 or -2 and so on.

Well, I have taken a little respite as I am being picked up in one hour for an evening cruise along the Vltava River. There is wine involved so am not sure if I will be posting again this evening. Depends upon the outcome…

I just noticed a menu item I may need to try…rabbit loin wrapped in bacon with spaetzle, cabbage topped with bacon and mustard sauce. I know I have never had rabbit but the rest sounds awesome. What do you guys think? Should I try?

July 19, 2017  Last day in Prague

Beautiful sunny morning in Prague. I’m lounging in the courtyard enjoying a cappuccino after eating a huge breakfast. Today is my last day here but it is long as my train to Vienna leaves at midnight. I am storing my stuff and plan on some major wandering. Enjoy the day everyone!  Lots of walking today. Just want to take it all in before it is time to go. One thing about here is that each building is more beautiful than the next. I asked and some are just plain old apartment buildings…nice ones!

          

Then, you come across small but elegant little parks complete with benches and unbelievable fountains.  Even the sidewalks are beautiful.  But then you see strange buildings. The middle one is called dancing buildings but no one has explained why.

      

 

July 20, 2017  A Little after midnight

Just got on the night train to Vienna. Beautiful car, newer, air conditioned. Sleep tight!

OMG, I was on the wrong car! That one was terminating way before Vienna. My car was about 20 cars up BUT WOW! Super nice, soft bed, coffee served in AM, special bathroom. Like this a lot!

Just awakened by the porter with coffee, sweet rolls, jam, orange juice. Slept great!  This is definitely a nice way to travel.

 

July 20, 2017  in Vienna

    

Arrived in Vienna after wonderful train ride. There was even a shower in my private bathroom but I did not partake. Luckily, I had requested an early check-in so I’m here in my room, showered and having my second coffee of the day. This room is HUGE! King bed, curvy sofa with table, full sized desk, three closets, and a bathroom that is larger than my office at home! Now, must plan my day… — in Vienna, Austria.

Found this local brewery/restaurant within minutes of my hotel. The Brown beer soup topped with cheese is awesome!  As you know, since I posted this morning, I am now in Vienna, Austria. Since it was very early, I stopped at the ticket office in the train station to reserve my seat for the Budapest leg of my trip. I then trekked the 1.5 kilometers to my hotel and, on the way, met a wonderful lady from the Dutch embassy who was walking her dog. Despite following my GPS directions, I had inadvertently missed a turn so was backtracking when this lovely lady asked me if I was lost. She had noticed my walking by and then my return. Anyway, she ended up walking me directly to my hotel. What a sweet gesture—and her pug was a little gentleman.

Since I got checked into my room so early, I took my time and was reviewing documents, etc. when I noticed the seat assignment for my Budapest train was in second class. I really cannot remember why but I had booked a first-class ticket so I wanted a first-class seat! Back to the train station (didn’t get lost). Took a number and had to wait through 50 people ahead of me but magically got the same agent who made the original booking. She apologized and fixed the error and even put me in the first-class premium car so all was good.

              

I then took to wandering a bit and found the Belvedere Museum and grounds. Gorgeous! It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was the summer home of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Construction began somewhere around 1712, there are two palaces, quite a few tiered fountains, an orangery, stables, gardens and ponds. The Belvedere Museum itself holds Austrian art from the middle ages to the present. I couldn’t find out the actual size of this property but it is massive.

I also wandered through the neighborhood nearby my hotel and found that most country’s embassies are neighbors. I kept looking for ours but it is across town. I found out later that, unlike most cities where pretty much all embassies are in one section, that is not true here (despite there being a lot right around where I am). The reason for this is that there were many beautiful historic buildings in Vienna that were previously palaces or large city villas in different parts of the city so a lot of countries took these over.

I am taking it very easy today as my back and neck are still hurting but, even more than that, my feet are somewhat swollen and I have developed a rash on my feet and legs. The rash doesn’t hurt but is somewhat unsightly so I stopped at an apotheke (pharmacy) to see what I might do. The suggestion was to stay off my feet and to take an anti-allergy pill as she thought the rash looked like an allergic reaction. The problem is to what?

So, I stopped and bought a nice bottle of a dry Austrian wine (some nice gentleman in the store picked it out for me), a small selection of Austrian cheeses and my fallback—dried fruit and nuts. On my way back to the hotel, I stopped for a nice iced Viennese coffee.  YUM!

For a few hours now, I have been laying down reading, sipping a glass of this rather excellent wine), munching on my snacks, and resting up for the full body massage scheduled in about an hour. My hotel has a restaurant showing an interesting menu so I may just stay in. I have a walking tour booked tomorrow and I really want to go on that.

The restaurant in the hotel, while it has a very impressive menu, seems to cater to those who wish to eat large, full meals and I am just not in the mood for that. So, using trusty Google, I found a little brewery just four minutes by walking. I already posted about it—what I didn’t say was that it is apparently a very popular place as it was packed!  I have noticed that not a lot of restaurants, despite having bars, have seating for eating at the bar. Bars do but the places that are primarily eateries, don’t seem to. It’s okay as I don’t really mind sitting at a table alone. Just an observation.

      

Another thing–I am absolutely amazed at how fast people drive in these cities! In the four countries I have visited thus far, I’ve seen nothing written but apparently the white bar areas at intersections serve as pedestrian walkways and, if there is not a light, pedestrians have the right of way. I have observed cars and other vehicles stopping but almost all drivers have a tendency to slam on the accelerator as soon as the walkways are almost clear and slam on the brakes as they approach. Scary.

By the way, the massage was AWESOME! The masseuse asked questions and examined my body and ended up concentrating on my neck, shoulders, upper back, and feet. I’m not saying that magically everything is a-okay but I do feel better. Hopefully, I can manage that three-hour tour tomorrow!

And now I feel that I must answer the question I have been asked regarding whether I ate a donut-wrapped ice cream cone. I DID! It was very late yesterday afternoon and I, being a chocoholic, ordered one with cinnamon on the donut, chocolate syrup drizzled down the inside and on top, stuffed with chocolate ice cream. OMG, it was absolute heaven. I savored every single lick, bite and almost closed my eyes in ecstasy and, when it was through, missed the gastronomical delight almost immediately. I didn’t say anything before because I was embarrassed to admit my weakness but you know, this may have been my only chance and I took it. I couldn’t take a picture of the actual one I ate because it is much larger than it looks in the pictures and I wasn’t willing to chance losing any of it!

 

July 21, 2017 in Magical Vienna

It is a beautifully sunny day in Vienna. After having a scrumptious breakfast at my hotel, I started off on my trek to find my tour. I actually let my phone’s GPS guide me. 30 minute walk but not what I would normally do as it was probably the most direct, not the most scenic. Relaxing at Cafe Theo enjoying another cappuccino before the tour.

I was determined to take my tour today so woke early and, after breakfast, walked the 2.8 kilometers to the tour meeting place. As I posted this morning, I found it without much of a problem and wandered around the area before the scheduled meeting time of 10:15 AM. We had a group of eleven—nine Americans and two Swiss. To be honest, although I know the tour was all around the historic and central Vienna area, I couldn’t begin to tell you our route. I have a lot of pictures which I will post and try to label.

Our guide was a Dutch man, Flip, who met an Austrian lady while on holiday in Greece 26 years ago and has been a Vienna resident ever since. He was very knowledgeable about Viennese history and told quite a few fascinating stories about the ancient Austrian monarchy. Our walking tour lasted over three hours! Some of the places we saw were the Parliament building (which is closed right now because the roof is leaking), St. Stephan’s Cathedral, the Volksgarten (the people’s garden), the Jewish quarter.  By the way, my feet are fine today.

During our walk, I learned that Mozart was quite the gambler and that, at one point, Florida was owned by Austria! I did a bit of research (not a lot, just cursory) and, apparently, he was right–Mozart was a gambler. Also, at one point in history, Hapsburg Spain did control land that presently includes Florida! Also, Marie Antoinette was Austrian! She was born as an Archduchess of Austria but married Louis, apparent heir (and ultimate emperor or was it king) of France. There were a dizzying number of inter-country marriages happening back in the day to gain or retain power among the various royal families. It almost gives me a headache trying to understand and keep track of everything that happened back then in Europe. I find it a hell of a lot easier to follow American history—perhaps because it isn’t so old.

Parliament…                                              St. Stephen’s Cathedral…

     

Tiergarten…

    

Despite that, it is fascinating to look at these buildings and imagine what was happening. One of the places we went to (and had a cup of espresso) was Café Central, opened in 1876 but later became a key hangout for such people as Leon Trotsky, Adolph Hitler, Albert Einstein, and Vladimir Lenin. And then, when walking through palaces and churches that have been in existence for centuries gives one such a feeling of awe.  It’s been a long day and I have walked a lot of miles so I think it is time to head back to the hotel for a little rest and relaxation before dinner.

 

Ok, I am in my room about to go out for dinner and have the tv on Russia Today (strangely enough, I think it is the best English-speaking channel over here). Right now, they are showing Putin sitting in a room with hundreds of schoolkids who are interviewing him. It is fascinating! A bit earlier, they had a clip from the FOX Tucker Carlson show! On a different note, last night, I found that tv here includes Disney and Nickelodeon!

Anyway, I have a very early day tomorrow as my train for Budapest leaves at 7:30 AM. So, I am going out to eat and have a couple of glasses of wine to relax.

 

July 22, 2017  On my way to Budapest

Hauptbahnhof Wien…

Waiting for my train. I think I have finally figured out how these trains work! On my way to Budapest… First class is definitely the way to go! Reclining seats, lots of legroom, quiet, clean, new. Speeding down the countryside to arrive in Budapest in 2-1/2 hours.  The train just crossed into Hungary! Also, the porter came by with free cappuccino and cookies. Passed by a picturesque town, church steeple reaching for the sky, beyond a glistening lake with mountains as the backdrop. On the other side, windmills as far as the eyes can see.

in Budapest…

Just got in to Budapest and decided to have a real Hungarian breakfast – scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, potato, onion, sprinkled with paprika. Very good and spicy!  I kind of took it easy today. I arrived at the Vienna train station at 7:00 AM for my 7:40 AM train. I was so proud of myself as I figured out which train and the proper car all by myself. Wouldn’t you know—my last train ride and I finally know how the whole system works? Oh well. I already posted about the awesome ride so I won’t bore you by repeating myself.
I got into Budapest and found my hotel right smack in the middle of the main promenade—what a great location! As I am trying to check in (my room wasn’t yet ready), two girls screamed HEY—we know you! When in the train station in Prague (remember, this was several days ago), I met two women from Singapore who were traveling on the same train as me. I was getting off in Vienna and they were skipping Vienna but traveling on to Budapest. We had conversed for about half an hour about our travels to that point. Anyway, it turns out they stayed in the same Budapest hotel I was now checking into but were checking out as I was checking in. What a small world. The really cool thing is they gave me their contact info and said for me to come to Singapore and they would show me around! I was kind of sorry they were leaving as they seemed like a lot of fun.

After this encounter, as I said in a previous post, I decided to go out for breakfast and it was very good—much spicier than breakfasts I am used to but WOW—got me going for the day. I wandered around looking at sights, crossed the Danube just because I could, checked out places where my Budapest card would give me discounts, watched street musicians (accordions seem to be popular here and it is kids playing them), watched other kids street performing where they danced on their heads, and even looked in a few shops – lace and embroidery is very big here—absolutely beautiful but what would I do with a lace tablecloth in my mobile home—while I love it, not exactly the right décor.

        

I did eventually get checked in, rested up a bit and then went back out for dinner. My room is nice, surprisingly modern, high up enough that I don’t get any street noise, and has the typical amenities. I guess because I had two breakfasts today I wasn’t terribly hungry at “dinnertime” so I stopped at a café on the promenade, had a nice glass of Hungarian sauvignon blanc together with an appetizer of duck liver pate, together with a mustardy onion jam, a mixture of greens with a nice tart dressing, and toasted slices of baguette. YUM!

By the way, I want to point out that in each city I have been visiting, I have purchased a locally produced bottle of dry white wine from a convenience store to drink in my room. I have not paid more than $5.00 US for any of these wines ad I want to tell you, they have all been very good. Another thing is I have found some strange flavors of potato chips. I just bought Paprika chips (Lays) and they are awesome! There are also flavors called Heinz Ketchup, Baked Chicken, Mexican Peppers & Cream, Barbecue Ham, and Balsamic! Why are these not sold in the USA?

Chips here cost 499 Forint which converts to $1.91

 

July 23, 2017 in Budapest

 

It is gloriously beautiful this morning and I am in Budapest! I woke at about 6:00 AM which is normal for me. Had coffee, showered, then went down the hall to the included breakfast buffet which was pretty extensive. I passed by all the sweet rolls, meats, and cheeses, fresh fruits and yogurt but partook of the excellent scrambled eggs with brie and fresh tomatoes together with a large cappuccino. After eating, I was out wandering the streets at about 7:00 AM and the streets were deserted! I am told that this is a pretty late town so not much starts happening before at least 9:00 or 10:00 AM. I didn’t mind as I was able to stroll along the Danube, then peek into store windows without the usual distractions. I also took this opportunity to schedule my bath visit for tomorrow at the Gellert Spa which is in Buda. More to come on that tomorrow!

I met up with my walking tour guide, Norba at 10 AM. Our group was quite the mixture—French, Irish, English, Canadian, Japanese, two other Americans and myself. Lucky for us, the tour was in English! I found out that the Hungarian language is closest to the Finnish language and they are both Uralic languages. To be honest, I have no idea what this means but the theory is that over 4,000 years BC a group of hunters from the Siberian lands beyond the Urals split, with the Finno group going towards the Baltic and the Ugric group moving southwards towards present-day Hungary. Whatever. It is NOT an easy language for us English-speakers to use. Luckily, many Hungarians know enough English to help us tourists out. Although, in my personal experience, it seems that less Hungarians know English than the other countries I have been to this trip. Not that it makes it any less fun or exciting—it actually adds an element of adventure!

      

This was the coolest place–big square of wall of fountains. If you stand in front of the “wall”, the water goes down and you can enter the square. In second picture, I am inside the fountain. I wasn’t fast enough and got my backside soaked.

Look who I am walking with right here in the heart of Budapest!

Relaxing after wonderful tour of Pest. Had excellent iced coffee that even included coffee beans. — drinking coffee at Tulipan Bistro.

Budapest Later in the Day

So, this afternoon I decided to wander into some neighborhoods instead of sticking to the tourist areas. Sometimes I like to just look at things and people. What I do is slightly fanciful as I make up little stories in my head about the people I see. For example, I saw this nice-looking guy walking towards me on the street but he is scowling and walking very purposefully. He almost looks angry. So, I decide that he and his girlfriend have just had a big spat. All he wants to do now is get to his local pub and have a brew with his buddies.

Then, I saw a very sophisticated woman, in her 40’s or thereabouts, very well-dressed with short hair superbly cut to flatter her face. She is not walking very fast, is talking softly into her cell phone, and I am thinking she is telling her boss “No, I do need to go home. I’ve worked late too many nights this week.” Or she is saying to her lover, “I can come out to meet you after I feed Dominik. Please be patient as I will be there. No, he thinks I have a meeting.”

In the course of my wanderings, I decide I am thirsty and it is about time for a glass of wine. I stopped at no fewer than ten different places and for some reason couldn’t decide. That is not usually a problem for me as, if I see one person drinking wine, I figure it is probably a good place to stop. So, I don’t know why the strange behavior but, whatever, finally, I found myself at Pepper House which, of course, had an outside eating area. I ordered a glass of sauvignon blanc and was contemplating the menu when I heard behind me, “If this says 10,000 forints, what does that mean?” I quickly typed that amount into the currency app on my phone and found it to be approximately $38 US. I turned around and told them and, after talking about the app for a couple of minutes, they asked me to join them. They are all from California and we traded traveling stories as we enjoyed our libations. Juan, Ed, Pam, and Angela…hope you enjoy your cruise!

So, we all know that Buda and Pest historically were two separate cities which joined together to become one in 1873. Yesterday and today I explored Pest which is the busier side of the Danube, the urban center, flatter, and easier to navigate. Tomorrow, I plan to explore Buda. Buda, on the West side of the river is hilly and semi-suburban, and has winding, narrow streets winding their way up into the hills. It is greener, more residential, and far harder to navigate by public transportation. Because there are hills everywhere, and they are steep, and because the city is very old, I have been told that most streets are unable to support modern automobiles.

Not to worry. I am walking. It is a mere 1.5 kilometers down the promenade, over the bridge, and up a hill.

 

July 24, 2017 onward to Buda

What a wonderful day once again! Budapest is fun, vibrant, and full of things to do. I wandered around for a bit this morning knowing that I had an appointment for a head to toe massage at Gellert at 1:30 PM. It was still pretty early (9:00 AM) so I decided to walk the bridge to Buda to explore a bit. After a bit, I saw the entrance to the park, Gellert Hill. It is 771 feet high and not an easy climb up to the Citadel and the Statue of Liberty. I know, because I climbed it. It has steep stairways and many, many steps but, the view, once you reach the top, is worth it. My Fitbit says I climbed 45 floors but I think it was more! Whatever. I did take pictures but I don’t think they do justice to the distance. You be the judge. One of the best things about making this climb was that the way down was DOWN.

       

 

Once I finally reached the bottom, I entered Gellert Bath & Spa and it is a more beautiful place than you can imagine. The knights of St John in the 12th century had already discovered the caves and the natural geothermal pools under Gellert Hill literally centuries ago. In the centuries following, buildings protecting the springs were both built and destroyed until opening in 1918 offering medicinal water treatments using the same deep underground springs the Knights of St John used in the 12th century to feel the invigorating powers of the mineral rich waters.

The Gellért Baths complex includes thermal baths, which are small pools containing water from Gellért hill’s mineral hot springs. Medical indications of the water includes degenerative joint illnesses, spine problems, chronic and sub-acute joint inflammations, vertebral disk problems, neuralgia, vasoconstriction and circulatory disturbances; inhalation problems for the treatment of asthma and chronic bronchitis problems.[1] The temperature of the water is between 35 °C and 40 °C. The thermal baths are decorated beautifully with mosaic tiles.

     

The complex also includes saunas and plunge pools (segregated by gender), an open-air swimming pool which can create artificial waves every 30 minutes and an effervescent swimming pool. A Finnish sauna with cold pool is also enclosed within the complex. I experienced most of the baths, the sauna, and the plunge pool. I then went upstairs to the VIP room for my ultra royal massage. We are talking a head to toe, full body, massage for 75 minutes. OMG—I am talking major bliss. Christian was my masseur and he worked my muscles into jelly. Facial, head massage, leg and foot massage. Ultimately, my neck, shoulders, and back have never felt so good. This was money well spent and, the entire time—entrance to the spa, use of all facilities, private changing room, rental of a robe, massage –grand total 23,000 Hungarian forint or less than $88.00 US.

 

Ready for dinner but it started raining. I know, I won’t melt but this is my last night here and I don’t want wet clothes in the suitcase. So, I chose an Italian restaurant right outside the door of my hotel. I ordered a savignon blanc and grilled sea bass.  It is still warm so am sitting outside on the promenade. Strangely enough, Italian restaurants are all over the place. I noticed that in every city I have been visiting. Dinner was awesome and now I am going to have creme brulee. Brittany! Remember when we had that in St Pete downtown? I just want to see if this one is as good. By the way, it would have been so much fun if you could have joined me! — eating dinner at Cucina The Italian Kitchen.

 

July 25  On my way to London

Woke early on this last morning in Budapest. Flying off to London in a few hours for the final leg of my trip. It looks to be a bit cooler in London but that’s okay. It’ll be a nice respite from the heat here and what I expect back at home.

When I woke this morning, I admit I was in a bit of a funk. I was wishing that I was on my way home. Despite having experienced three gorgeous, mostly sunny days, it was overcast, gloomy, and a bit chilly this morning. It didn’t help that my feet hurt like crazy, I have several blisters and just want to sit with my feet up and not walk anywhere for a while. But, it was my last day, so I took a last walk around before having to meet my driver. Unfortunately, that did not help my spirits one bit. Because my hotel was on the walking promenade, I had to meet my driver on a street corner several blocks from my hotel. The agreed upon time was 10:00 AM and, you know me, I was there early. 10:00 no driver, 10:15 no driver, 10:25 no driver. I was freaking out! I ended up making an international call to the shuttle service only to find out that he was caught in traffic. He finally showed at 10:40. I had plenty of time to catch my flight as I tend to plan ahead but that call probably cost me $15.00!

Oh well, I got to the airport and what incredible chaos! It is an absolutely beautiful, modern airport with signs in both Hungarian and English but no proper lines to speak of. Everyone just crowds up to the check-in/baggage desks willy-nilly. This airport also had the most beautiful smoking deck I have ever seen in an airport. And no, I am not smoking and haven’t BUT even e-cigs are relegated to smoking decks. In Budapest, there was a wonderful, full service bar outside for smokers right in the terminal. How civilized! They had some great quotes up on the wall: Plato said “He was a wise man who invented beer.”; Thomas Jefferson said “Beer, if drunk in moderation, softens the temper, cheers the spirit and promotes health.”; Jack Nicholson said “Beer, it’s the best damn drink in the world.”; and Martin Luther said “Whoever drinks beer, he is quick to sleep; whoever sleeps long, does not sin; whoever does not sin, enters Heaven! Thus, let us drink beer!”

So, I had a beer- a dreher. Quite good.

Just chillin’ before the flight. This is an awesome airport but quite chaotic.

in London…

Just been wandering since I arrived several hours ago. Trying to get my bearings in a very busy, very crowded city. Decided it was time for some libations. Nice cold chenin blanc from South Africa. I don’t think England has wineries. None on menu from here. Fun ride in on the Heathrow Express–couldn’t have been easier. Walked into Hyde Park. Saw this arch. — at Royal Standard Cocktail Bar & Restaurant.

 

So, as I said, earlier today I was not exactly in the mood to continue my travels and was kind of wishing that I was heading home. I got on the plane and, as luck would have it, met two American expats who live in London. It is not like I was going to spend a whole bunch of money to change my trip but these two people – Amanda and (I think) Joe, told me I just had to continue my plans to visit London. They said you just have to stop in a few local pubs and soak up the local ambience, see the castle, Big Ben, etc. They said they felt bad because they had to get home and work tomorrow or they would help show me around.

Well, I got off the plane and, I don’t know—maybe it was all of a sudden hearing English being spoken all around me or being able to completely understand every sign, or the passport control guy who told me to tell Donald Trump “Hi!” when I get home but, as soon as I picked up my suitcase, I was excited again. I figured out where to go without asking anyone and got on this very comfortable train that took all of about 15 minutes to get from the airport to Paddington Station (near my hotel).

As soon as I checked in, I started wandering, walked a bit in Hyde Park, and then took my seat-mate’s advice and looked for a pub. I saw one with a couple of people sitting outside and ordered a glass of wine and an appetizer cheese plate. The plate came with a great selection of cheeses and two different kinds of toast triangles. I asked the bartender “Where’s the chutney?” (It was on the menu as an accompaniment.) She had no idea what I was talking about—turns out, she was new, from Italy, and had never heard of chutney. Anyway, I got the chutney, and all was very tasty. But, within, 15 or 20 minutes, the place filled up with locals who had just gotten off work so, apparently, I picked well.

So, now I am back at the hotel, a bit tired and want to rest my feet for tomorrow as I have a lot I want to see.

July 26, 2017 whirlwind tour of London

Well, it looks as if my luck has run out. It is rather cold here in London, 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and, while I can deal with that, rain is predicted for most of the day and quite frequently supposed to be heavy. I don’t mind walking around in a light rain or drizzle but getting drenched is just not fun. Much of my planned journey today does not involve places where you can just duck into a shop for a bit. But, I will persevere!

One good thing is that I am one hour closer to home! The time difference here is only 5 hours instead of the six hour difference “on the continent”.

   

Been walking all over. Just light rain so not deterring me. Saw this charming pub and decided to have a cappuccino. — eating hanging out at The Red Lion, Westminster.  Stopped by to see if Theresa May was accepting visitors. The guards were very nice but said no. I also checked out Parliament and walked along a very picturesque street. — at Downing Street.

      

 

   

Just walked by New Scotland Yard. Across the Thames you can see the Eye. — at New Scotland Yard, Metropolitan Police Service, Richmond Terrace, London.

Started raining pretty hard so I took refuge here. Nice waiter by the name of Tony. — drinking coffee at Garfunkel’s.

The queen is not accepting visitors either. — at Buckingham Palace.

   

 

    

Enjoying high tea in the Tea Room at Harrods. Six different finger sandwiches- beef, salmon, and egg. Two scones with butter and assorted jams, a chocolate confection, and, of course, a cup of tea. This experience costs 34 pounds but one cannot come to London and not partake. I’ve actually been waiting all day for this. YUM! — at Harrods.

Strolling along The Serpentine within Hyde Park. Heading towards Kensington Gardens. — at Hyde Park.

     

I think I am a little bit in love with London. I walked over twelve miles today and managed to touch at some point Paddington, Bayswater, Marylebone, Mayfair, Soho, Covent Garden, The City, Knightsbridge, St. James, Westminster, Victoria, West End, Belgravia, Hyde Park, and Kensington Gardens. I know that does not cover all of London but I am impressed with the level of greenery, flowers, parks. Tree-lined streets soften city edges while colorful flower baskets hanging from ornate light poles add an artistic flair. Winding streets and centuries old buildings make the city charming and quaint.

Within moments you can experience a cacophony of sound—bus engines, police and ambulance sirens, as well as multiple conversations and then, strolling through the gardens or a park, you once again feel peaceful and serene. I like it. I especially enjoyed walking along the Princess Diana Memorial walkway within Kensington Gardens. Just beautiful.

I am glad I did not choose to ride on the Eye. I leaned on the wall over the River Thames and watched it for a period of time and I’ll tell you, it went WAY too slow for me. According to Google, it takes 30 minutes for one complete revolution but it looked much slower than that to me.

I have noticed that Londoners or perhaps it is British people like to end their sentences with questions. For example, “The dog caught that ball, didn’t he?” or “That is a beautiful sunset, isn’t it?” Besides the accent, kind of charming, don’t you think?

I have loved walking around parts of London and am wishing I had scheduled a bit more time. Despite the rain, my time here was lovely. I had the proper clothing so I stayed both dry and warm. Even when the locals were acting like it was a heavy rain, I was thinking—this is nothing! You should see some of the rain storms we get in Florida!

I was quite surprised at the number of phone booths I saw. They are cute and charming but I have to wonder how much use they are in this day and age. In the USA, we rarely see phone booths anymore and here, as in every country I have visited, almost everyone is carrying a cell phone.

One thing I didn’t like and I found somewhat sad was noticing how rude young people have become today. This behavior wasn’t particularly unique to London but happened to be very noticeable here. When walking around most of the notable attractions, London provides lovely walkways that are perhaps ten feet wide. I am but one person and it didn’t seem to matter if I walked on the right, the left, or in the center, large, unruly groups of young persons would crowd the walkway all the way across and rarely would they move aside so at times I felt I had to just stand still to avoid being run over or step off the walkway…careless with umbrellas and arms, and extremely self-centered. I was not alone in this assault. I noticed couples and other single people who had to step out of the walkway to allow these rude people to pass and it happened a lot! Besides common decency, I vaguely remember being taught to honor our elders and I do believe I now qualify as one of them.

While mourning the passing of common manners, I didn’t let it detract from my falling in love with this city. Even the lack of sunshine (and I love the sun), did not take away the positive vibe I received here. I am so glad I came here!

This was a park directly across the street from my hotel… My only disappointing hotel was in London.  This was by far the most expensive hotel on my trip.  Now, to be fair, Hyde Park is an expensive area and I chose to stay there because of its walking access to virtually everything I wanted to see BUT, the bed was probably the smallest I’ve ever slept in (and I am not exactly a big person) in a room no bigger than a large closet.  No refrigerator, no coffee pot.  The staff was great and continental breakfast was included.

 

July 27, 2017 on my first leg home

Obviously, at the airport for my flight home. I don’t actually arrive back in St. Pete until tomorrow so LONG travel time. But, I will have time to rest and reacclimate to US time. I’m ready to be home. I miss my Chloe and everyone.

July 28, 2017 in Miami

Well, I am back in the United States after a wonderful trip that I enjoyed immensely but I am very glad to be (almost) home. I arrived in Miami late yesterday and, because my flight home isn’t scheduled until today, I am presently in a hotel but am absolutely thrilled that within seven or so hours I should be back in St. Pete.

In the recent few weeks, I have had the opportunity to travel through eleven beautiful, modern airports or train stations located in seven different countries only to be welcomed back into the USA to the somewhat decrepit facility known as the Miami International Airport that, for many, is one’s first view of the United States. How sad! The hotel I checked into is attached to Terminal E and, sometime after checking in, decided to look for something to eat. I wandered for a bit and, other than the typical fast food joints, there weren’t many options. Even the shops look tired and banal. Wandering through most of the transportation hubs in the other countries I visited was exciting, an adventure. Clean, modern, with many options for eating, drinking, and shopping.

Even the attached hotel is a major disappointment. While clean and definitely convenient, it is a bit shabby. There is a dresser but no desk and the internet connection is spotty at best. We consider ourselves to be the best country in the world but, it certainly doesn’t look like it. Does make me wonder… where is the infrastructure bill we’ve been promised?

 

Ok, I have to walk back some of my criticism of the Miami airport. I’m now in Terminal D and it is much different from the international arrivals and passport control area. Wide selection of tempting restaurants including many with Cuban and Caribbean fare. Scrumptious smells! Lots of eclectic shops to wander in and while away the time or spend more money. Clean, newer looking, modern. I just know that soon I will be trying some of those Cuban delicacies whose aroma is wafting across the aisle. Yum!

Now this is somewhat amusing. Apparently I have gotten so used to not being able to understand the airport announcements that I just now realized that I am now in a place (Miami) where I should be able to understand them yet still don’t.